THE STORY BEHIND MY PHOTOGRAPHY PROJECT “EXPOSED: FORMOSA NIGHT MARKETS”

How I stumbled into my first passion project and photographed my way through the night markets of Taiwan.

EXPOSED: Formosa Night Markets - Robert Schall

Not everything end up planned

This is the story of how I came to start my “Exposed” series of projects. These projects really came about by accident. I wished I could say there was a grand plan behind them. Long deliberations, mullings of thoughts, a well thought out plan, and that I mapped out a route for myself how to achieve these. The reality is that I stumbled into them, well at least the first one. As that one took shape, it dawned on me that I could turn this into something, that there was an actual project there, multiple projects to tell the truth. With just a bit more diligence I could, just maybe, turn this into a series.

A photographic journey

Photography is a strange medium, on one side it is an amalgamation of works that we create for clients, on the other side, we photographers, are constantly snapping away, inspired by something or other. My own journey has been one of personal exploration as well as fulfilling client requests. I revel in trying new styles, types, and topics of photography. Hungrily soaking up all the experiences I can muster, trying to constantly improve my artistic expressions and techniques.

Part of the process of growing as an artist, naturally, is to look at other people’s work. Galleries, museum exhibits, photo books, posted and printed works all provide ample means. It seemed to me that everyone had passion project, themes and phases of work that they went through. While devouring these works, it formed the notion inside my head that I needed to emulate this as well. How could I be taken seriously as a professional photographer if I did not have a project that I would constantly work on, show case and be identified by.

I guess, in many ways, I fell into kind of a trap. Similar to the ongoing debate that you absolutely need to find your own recognizable style, otherwise no one will take you seriously. That sans a unique identity, in a rapidly saturating industry, you would just not stand out. This was another aspect of photography that I waged an inner discourse about. It created a lingering doubt, am I maybe just an imposter, where was my recognizable style, my project, my “je ne sais quoi”, that identifies me as a real photographer. I was torn between the need to satisfy this ideology and my rebellion against conforming.

Traveling the passion

Enough rambling, this is a rhetoric for another blog post. Time to get back to my “Exposed” series and how I came to start this series.

So where was I? Oh yes, my accidental stumble into this project series. Traveling is a huge passion of mine, born out of a life as a third culture child, reinforced by parents who are also avid travelers. I realize early on that one of the richest aspects of any culture is its food. The culinary aspect of any culture comes loaded with traditions, beliefs, and practices. Sometimes these define a culture just as much as geographic regions, ethnic groups, and/or religious bodies do.

Food and its place in culture

There is so much richness in food, not just the culinary aspect of it. Want to learn about a culture, dive into its culinary panoply. Different cultural backgrounds eat difference foods. Where you live, where your ancestors originated from, all influence what you put on your plate, and what you leave out. Your religion can have just as much influence too. Food is one of the most important parts of religious ceremonies. Influencing what can be eaten, how different ingredients should be prepared, right through when you should eat these. No pork, fish on Fridays, vegetarian after funerals, and the list goes on.

Preparing and consuming delectable dishes is more than just a means of survival. Food is multidimensional, it shapes us, represents our identity, our culture and society. We have all heard the expression “Clothes make a man.” (Mark Twain / Shakespeare). Yes, there is more to the quote from Mark Twain, the part about naked people, but we digress. We identify white coats with physicians, uniforms with policemen, clothing transmits a meaning. Food evokes just as powerful associations. Tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella will automatically make you dream of Italy, or at least a great Italian restaurant or a Schnitzel with remind you of the Austrian Alps. Beyond all these aspects, food can create bonds between individuals and groups. Many relationships have been formed through the proverbial “breaking of bread”.

What food means to me when I travel

I cannot overstate the importance of food as a gateway into a culture. At least for me it is. I make it a point to try local foods, to seek out those places where locals go eat. Nothing upsets me more when I travel than to be surrounded by restaurants that serve dishes I can get at home. I am not flying to Chiang Mai (Thailand) to eat Subway or visiting the picturesque Sun Moon Lake in Taiwan to go eat at Pizza Factory. I want to smack my lips on Khao Soi, a rich and savory northern Thai egg noodle yellow curry soup or gingerly wrap up a Miang Kahm, a bite-size betel lead wrapped snack. I seek out Ah Ma tea eggs, twice boiled black tea eggs near the Xuanguang Temple on the shores of Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan, or eagerly peel the flesh of a grass carp (also known as the Aruzay or President fish) with my chopsticks.

I could write whole blogs just about the culinary delights found throughout my travels. Maybe make you squirm in your seats talking about delicacies such as Escargots Bourguignonne, a French dish from Burgundy comprised of small snails backed with garlic and butter, or Tiet Canh, a northern Vietnamese blood pudding dish. Maybe I would be better off making your mouth water talking about an authentic Argentinian gaucho dish called Asado con Cuero, grilled beef, or make you crave for Paella Valenciana, one of, if not, the most famous Spanish dishes. I think I will leave that to the late Anthony Bourdain and the insatiable Andrew Zimmerman and concentrate on more photographic topics in my blogs. Although be forewarned, I might digress every now and then with my passion of foods and other topics, while regaling you with stories from my photography journey.

My introduction to Taiwan

By now you must be asking yourself what all of this has to do with my actual topic: my “Exposed” photo projects. Well, the first project, as I mentioned, I just so happen to have stumbled into by hap stance, is all about food. As ever I was searching out my next mouthwatering, tongue tingling, belly rubbing morsel of local delicacy. It all started with my visit to Taiwan, I went on a whim, having heard so much over the years about this contested island off the coast of China. As most tech interested people, I was well aware of the technology coming out of Taiwan, especially in the microchip industry, but I have to admit I knew little else about the country. So, I did my due diligence and researched a little on Taiwan, trying to determine if I should go. Needless to say, it did not take long for me to make up my mind and I hopped on a plane to Taiwan. I bet you can guess what, besides fantastic scenery and myriads of temples, had caught my interest and had convinced me that I had to go visit the island of Formosa.

If you guessed food, then you guessed right. It did not take long, during my research, to quickly discover that Taiwan is crazy about street food. Everywhere in Taiwan there are what is called Night markets. Night markets are generally bazaars dedicated to more leisurely strolling, shopping , and eating then the more businesslike day markets. And these night markets I soon found are food meccas. Throngs of people, vibrant smells, a cacophony of sounds, dazzling lights, and innumerable signs give these markets a fantastical, carnival-like atmosphere.

Taiwan and its night markets

And when I say that the Taiwanese are crazy about their street food, I am not kidding you. There are over 700 official night markets in Taiwan. Ranging from larger ones, with purpose-built marketplaces, to ones that close down small streets in the evening, right down to theoretically temporary ones. I say theoretically because even these come back every night. During the day, all you find is a street with its normal daytime stores. Come evening vendors show up with their stalls and start cooking some of the most amazing food you will find in Taiwan. Night markets are not only food. You will find stalls hawking clothing, consumer goods, drinks, and even carnival games where kids, or adults, can entertain themselves and win toys. There is something for everyone at these night markets.

Personally, I was after the food. And boy was I not disappointed. As you enter into a night market the flow of the crowd carries you away like the current of a river. As you bob along in this human current, you are washed over with all these delectable scents that assail your nostrils, and before you know it, your mouth is watering in with desire and anticipation. There is a bit of an art to maneuvering around and you have to find the right moment to exit the stream, and come ashore at one of the stalls. Waiting in line to be able to place my order, would give me the time to observe what and how people were ordering their foods, so that when it was my turn, I could do my best to obtain desired dish. Depending on what the stall sold some would have chairs and tables, overs was takeaway only and you had to find a space on the side in order to be able to sample your bounty.

And then the photography journey began

Once my belly was satisfied and fill to the point of bursting, I was able to pursue my other passion: taking photos. And let me tell you, these night markets, with their stalls, lights, and crowds are a street photographers dream come true. And that is how I fell, or should I say, ate my way into my first “Exposed” project. I hadn’t meant to set out to do I photo project about night markets. I was just following my stomachs dictates. But I fell in love with these night markets. From the hum and drum of the crowd, the brilliance of the colorful lights, and especially the amazing variety of foods, I was enamored and hooked. I couldn’t get enough. I wanted to taste more, see more and especially document it all with my camera.

More on my journey to making “Exposed: Formosa Night Markets” in my next blog.

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